The journal · Terroir
What to eat in the Pays d'Aix? Provençal specialities, local produce and Mediterranean flavours
Calissons, anchoïade, olive oil, rosés and morning markets: a gourmet guide to a land best explored by the plate.
Between Sainte-Victoire, olive groves and vineyards, the Pays d'Aix is as much tasted as visited. This guide covers specialities, produce, wines, seasons and where to taste them today, including our Mediterranean cuisine in Bouc-Bel-Air.
Specialities
Must-try specialities of the Pays d'Aix
A confection, sauces to share, the vegetable garden, the sea and the bakery.
The calisson d'Aix
Almond paste and candied melon on a wafer, glazed with royal icing: the city's emblem. Buy it from artisan confectioners.
Tapenade, anchoïade, aïoli
Olive, anchovy and garlic preparations placed in the middle of the table and shared.
Tians, stuffed vegetables, ratatouille
Summer vegetables slowly cooked with olive oil and thyme.
Supions, rockfish, bouillabaisse
Marseille is half an hour away: small squid with garlic and parsley, and fish soups.
Fougasse, navettes, pompe à l'huile
Breads and sweets, including the thirteen Christmas desserts.
Terroir
Local produce to know
A handful of simple products grown a few miles away.
01
Olive oil: aglandau, salonenque
The Pays d'Aix has its own olive oil appellation; visit a mill between November and January.
02
Herbs, garlic, tomato, courgette
The aromatic base of Provençal cooking.
03
Goat's cheese and honey
Small goat's cheeses like nearby Banon, lavender and garrigue honeys.
AOC Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence
Mostly dry, fruity rosés, plus reds and whites.
Palette
A tiny appellation near Aix, known for wines that age well.
For pairings, read our guide to food and wine pairings.
Calendar
Eating with the seasons in Provence
What you eat depends on the month.
| Season | Key produce | What to eat |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Asparagus, broad beans, artichokes | Barigoule artichokes, fresh goat's cheese |
| Summer | Tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines | Tians, ratatouille, supions |
| Autumn | Figs, grapes, mushrooms | Slow-cooked dishes |
| Winter | New olive oil, truffles, citrus | Soups, thirteen desserts |
Dates vary with the weather each year.
Good questions
Provençal or Mediterranean: what to taste and bring home
Three frequent questions, answered.
01
Provençal or Mediterranean?
Provençal is a regional cuisine; Mediterranean spans Spain to Lebanon around olive oil, vegetables and fish.
02
What to taste
A calisson, anchoïade, supions, a tian, raw olive oil, a Coteaux d'Aix rosé.
03
What to bring home
Calissons, mill olive oil, tapenade, lavender honey, a bottle of Palette.
Where to taste
Where to taste: markets, producers, restaurants
Markets in Aix and nearby villages
Place Richelme every morning, wider markets on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
Mediterranean cuisine revisited: Pakal
Our opening menu featured supions, courgette fritters, burrata, pan con tomate, goat's cheese salad, pasta and risotto; the menu changes with the seasons — see the current menu, our terrace, minutes from Aix-en-Provence, and our article on South American cuisine in Provence.
- 90
- Terrace seats
- 115
- Indoor seats
- 42
- Parking spaces
FAQ
The Pays d'Aix at the table, in questions
What is Aix-en-Provence's speciality?
The calisson, an almond and candied melon confection.
What wine is drunk in the Pays d'Aix?
Mostly Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence rosés, plus the small Palette appellation.
What is anchoïade?
A Provençal anchovy, garlic and olive oil sauce served with raw vegetables.
When to eat supions?
Mostly in the warm months, from late spring to autumn, depending on the catch.
Where to eat Mediterranean near Aix?
At Pakal in Bouc-Bel-Air, with a 90-seat terrace and free private parking. Book on +33 4 42 53 24 77.
Conclusion
The Pays d'Aix, a land to taste
Knowing what to eat in the Pays d'Aix means following seasons, markets and producers.
Fancy tasting the Mediterranean revisited on our terrace? Book by phone on +33 4 42 53 24 77.
04 42 53 24 77Open Tuesday to Saturday lunch and Wednesday to Saturday dinner · closed Sunday and Monday · free 42-space private car park
Further reading
Continue the journey
See how these southern flavours reach the plate on our page restaurant cuisine méditerranéenne Bouc-Bel-Air